Christmas in the Bodge

Living in a part of the world that has traditionally taken little or no interest in celebrating Christmas (being Buddhist and all), you could be forgiven for wondering whether Cambodians had ever even heard of 'Christmas' and the other goings-on we take for granted around this time of year.

But the reality is that Cambodia - like many of its south east Asian neighbours - has adopted a sort of 'pseudo-Christmas', ripping the soul out of the celebration and retaining in glorious splendour the one thing Cambodians now associate with Christmas - shopping.

You might think that this is no different from the current state of affairs back in England, but their total lack of knowledge that Christmas may have the slightest thing to do with God, Jesus or the Christian faith marks your average Cambodian out from your average Brit when it comes to Christmas trivia.

All tinsel but no tingle
Driving down the streets of Phnom Penh, tinsel glistens through store front windows. Large, nicely-adorned Christmas trees draw shoppers into mobile phone stores, supermarkets, furniture shops and computer retail outlets - all with the promise of "30% off" or "Big Christmas Sales".

In the gardens of Ambassador's residences and villas of well-to-do Khmers hang flashing lights and large Christmas decorations, familiar signs of Christmas back home. But it's clear that something is missing.

We asked our neighbours last year what they thought Christmas was all about. They told us: "We don't know. But I guess even you foreigners need to celebrate something. We have our Water Festival and so I guess you have your Christmas."

Out on the streets, the people remain no more the wise. In a recent newspaper article, workers in Christmas-themed shops were interviewed and asked what they thought Christmas was all about. "I have no idea," said one employee, while another chimed in, "But we love Christmas. It's so cool. I want to play under the snow one day too."

According to one store manager: "Christmas is about one big fat guy giving present to small kids." Eventually the reporter found someone who had heard what it was all about. "I think Christmas has something to do with Jesus Christ. Maybe it's his birthday? I'm just guessing."

Christmas is here to stay
The stores of Phnom Penh prove the reality that, regardless of whether Khmers understand its true meaning, Cambodia has gladly accepted the package of Christmas sent from its Western counterparts. It draws a nation desperate to be upwardly mobile closer towards the West - towards ever-increasing prosperity.

So our work colleagues will be buying their fiances and wives Christmas presents this year, while our friends at Young Life will be eager to prove their love to their sweethearts with a well-chosen gift this Christmas.

But behind the seasonal sales and flashing Christmas lights lies another reality. Churches and groups of Christians will be meeting today and throughout the week to celebrate the real meaning of Christmas. In a country where the vast majority are Buddhists and non-conformity is frowned upon to say the least, these people know that Christmas is more important than just another chance to shop.

They have captured some of the magic of Christmas - recalling the time when God came down from Heaven and 'moved into the neighbourhood'. As their country continues to exploit the financial possibilities of Christmas, hopefully it will only be a matter of time before Cambodians start to ask the obvious question: "What is Christmas really all about"?

They have made a commercial purchase but Cambodia may just find, when it comes to Christmas, they end up getting more than they bargained for. (Dave)